I'm all for the romance of cork. I love using the corkscrew and hearing that satisfying "pop". But it is becoming increasingly easy for me to accept the move to screw caps. Of the close to 75 wines we managed to try at the two tastings,( "Only 75?" Hey we had to drive 2 hours back home!) we came across 11 that were corked. For those keeping score at home thats 14.6% of our wines. And those are just the ones that weren't tried before being poured! I'm sure that some of the reps that tasted their wines before pouring came across a couple as well.
This is a shame. Of the corked wines, one was a Sterling 1995 SLV. Upon putting it to the nose, the wet cardboard and lack of any fruit at all made it immediately obvious that the wine was corked. Taste more than confirmed it. And what was more frustrating? The people pouring didn't believe us and were reluctant to open another bottle! I understand it can be embarrassing to be told one of your wines is corked, but you don't tell your customer that they are wrong! Simply open another bottle and compare. Sure enough the second bottle was leaps and bounds better than the first and even they exclaimed, "Wow! You're right!"
At the Frederick Wildman tasting, we came to a table of French wines by Chateau Fuisse. Antoine Vincent (of Chateau Fuisse) was there representing his wines. All of their wines were amazing, which built up my anticipation for his grand finale: the Chateau Fuisse Collection Privee 1999. All of the wines we had tasted up until that point were single vineyard bottlings. The Collection was a blend of single vineyard wines from the 1999 vintage. This wine is one that is kept in the family and never sold, so it was a real treat to be able to taste it. He was so passionate about everything, very knowledgeable, and extremely courteous in answering all of our questions. Which is why I did not have the heart to speak up and tell him that his 1999 was corked. Not just a little bit either, it was full on corked. I was supremely disheartened, and couldn't help but wonder how good the wine was actually supposed to taste.
There is simply no reason for this to continue. Not too long ago at work, one of our wine reps brought in 8 wines to taste and 7(!!) were corked! What are the odds?! It has gotten to be that if I am having a tough time deciding between two wines to purchase, even if it's just for my own personal enjoyment that night, I will opt for the screw cap. Supposedly, cork producers have made strides in quality control and the cutting down on TCA contamination. I'm sorry, but tasting wines and "only" having 15% of them ruined just isn't good enough for me, especially when I come across corked wines that should be automatic classics.





